Parfumerie Generale: Cuir d'Iris

I think it is well-established by now, that I enjoy my iris as much as my leathers. Pierre Guillaume once again hits those 2 olfactory spots in a flawless victory. There is a distinct "PG" quality and style (like a thick, dusty/smoky cloud) I notice in his musk laden, animalic amber creations, previously most prominently so in Felanilla and L'Ombre Fauve. Cuir d'Iris is another model representative that harbors that style.

I believe it is down to the execution of marrying iris to leather so perfectly, that it comes off unpretentious and effortless, like as if they never existed separately. Upon first whiff, I get a mind-bogglingly natural smell of fine, buttery, supreme grade leather, exuding succulence and opulence, without even coming close to overwhelming the senses. All this happening, while the iris (in good amount mind you), so seamlessly included from the start, feels like it's been powdered over the leather.

It is not long after appreciating and acknowledging the harmonious leather-iris blend, that I start to notice that the scent has built up quite a thick, woody and dusty cloud of smoke(the smoky amber I spoke of earlier). It is this permeative cloud that is present in L'Ombre Fauve as well. And like-wise in Cuir d'Iris, the vanilla provides sweetness to the balance which might have easily been deemed to be very dry. It stays pretty much a smoky leathery amber till its dying moment, many hours later.

This is truly an amazing piece of work.

Bond No. 9: West Side

"Cream Rose"


I will avoid discussing the inspiration of this scent since I am neither acquainted nor interested in why or how this could smell like homage to Jazz music.

Bond no. 9 scents are (in)famously known to be derivative concoctions, (I'm sounding harsher than I meant to be)bearing only one aspect of a niche trait - Price. I'm not highly enthused to explore them extensively, but every now and then, I chance upon one that I just click with.

West Side is a rather simple, clean and soft scent. Under most circumstances, stereotypes and associations, this one might just steer a little more to the girl-y side of things.

It opens with a light and creamy rose + vanilla + sandalwood combination. It comfortably sheds the floral notes as the first hour or so passes, and the main program of creamy and smooth sandalwood and vanilla starts to run its course. I seem to notice a plastic-y/chemical-y accord in West Side, though not in any negative sense. I actually quite enjoy this aspect.

In the ending phases, soft musk which has always been around, starts to reveal its role in the comforting, soapy-clean silk veil over my skin.

Tom Ford: Tobacco Vanille

Tobacco Vanille unlike what the name might suggest, is not a typical smokey vanilla monster ( I believe the tobacco reference here is one of unsmoked tobacco leaves.) Instead, it is a rather linear blend of honey, dried fruits and vanilla.

This isn't a rich or thick dessert-y concoction either. This ambient scent greets you with the sweetness of honeyed and slightly-spiced dried fruit, lightly layered with vanilla. In fact, the vanilla stays rather quiet and mostly complimentary for most parts of the top and heart phases, revealing itself more prominently in the final stages of the dry-down as a typical vanilla skin-scent.

Longevity and sillage is impressive, and for good reason if you enjoy it upon first spritz - it doesn't evolve much.

I'm hardly blown away, but this will serve you well if you're looking for a simple and cozy olfactory companion, much like burning vanilla-scented beeswax candles.

Domenico Caraceni: Ivy League

Given a name synonymous with an elite group of institutions bearing proud traditions of sporting and scholarly excellence, Domenico Caraceni's Ivy League certainly has a lot to live up to. naturally I expect a fragrance that is youthfully 'preppy' yet conveys a certain sense of tradition.

Ivy League opens briskly on my skin with bitter citrus, gradually softening to a sparkling blend of light white florals that retains enough of its green soapy profile to keep its sillage freshly-preppy and away from 'mature women' territory. There is also the occasional hint of earthy vetiver roots reminiscent of Dior's Eau Sauvage - faint at first but gaining prominence as the florals recede. Projection and sillage are both tastefully moderate, with just a touch of sweetness in the earthy musk drydown.

While I do wish for the citrus soap element to last longer, in terms of concept Ivy League delivers. Yes, the opening may come across somewhat detergent-like to some but the fragrance development itself is as exhilarating as a road trip with your college buddies. I also think Ralph Lauren would kill to have this formula - Ivy League would have been an outstanding addition to the Polo family!

By Kilian: Back to Black

I love Amy Winehouse's Back to Black and by that association alone I'm probably prone to wax lyrical about one of Calice Becker's more recent addition to the By Kilian line. But is this scent worthy of the lines devoted to it in many of the perfume blogs? The short answer is 'YES'.

The opening is bittersweet and fleetingly smoky, with hints of dark cherries and rum-soaked woods. References to 'cherry liqueur' are not too far off base for it does seem redolent of cask-aged liqueur.

As seconds pass into minutes, it gets warmer and syrupier with cardamom, ginger and spices lightly woven into the sweet benzoin-and-honey based tapestry. At this point the composition could have easily turned into a gourmand gingerbread-type of scent if not for the distinctively rendered and rather distinguishing note of cured unsmoked tobacco leaves. The juxtaposition of a dark and, I might add, masculine element with the warm golden glow of honey works brilliantly, producing an intoxicatingly rich scent that is warm and comforting yet oddly intriguing - it invites the nose to get very close to the skin and explore. Rather sensual indeed. Perhaps that's why Back to Black is also called 'Aphrodisiac'.

To my mind Back to Black is not so much of a fragrance than it is an experience. It serenades me in the language of the five senses, of dark rich colors and luxurious fabrics, of clinking cognac glasses and soulful jazz, of deeply lingering tastes and intoxicating scents. While I'm not fully convinced of its versatility as a wearable oriental, I can appreciate why it is regarded by some as a true By Kilian masterpiece.

Diptyque: L'Ombre dans L'Eau

If wearing Serge Lutens' Sa Majeste la Rose makes you feel as though you're holding a lush bouquet of fresh red roses, then spritzing on some L'Ombre dans L'Eau might feel like fixing a single dark rose bud on the lapel of your dinner jacket. I simply adore the way it wears on my skin -tiny dewdrops green with hints of crushed leaves and broken stems but losing none of the luscious signature of the Bulgarian rose. The rose note never gets overbearing but stays tasteful throughout, a single budding rose peeking out of the foliage. I believe when it comes to rose soliflores, few could come within touching distance of this elegant Diptyque bestseller.

Enchante. 'Shadow on the water' indeed.

Etat Libre d'Orange: Rien

My (winning) streak with Etat Libre d'Orange continues with Rien.

Rien is a leather lover's must have. Let me warn you that this is not the typical sweetened leather concoction. And most people will tell you that it is extremely dry: fact.

Rien strikes me as a rubbery, soapy, tarry, aggressive, civety leather. In a huge sense, I could relate Rien to the smell of burnt rubber. It opens with a huge dose of soapiness, wrapped in a thick cloud of rubbery smoke, while exuding bitter tones of leather, to the point it feels a little medicinal and anti-septic.


All that being said, I think the term (I'll borrow it from my friend and fellow Basenoter - Moltening) that best encaptures most of Rien, is "Mineralic"/"Smell of wet stone". It just clicked for me, when I read his review on Rien.

As Rien retires and settles, I get light whiffs of almost-sweet rose and incense, something which I must have missed earlier in that bitter haze.

This is one of the most daring scents I've encountered yet.