Parfumerie Generale: Iris Oriental (Taizo)

I think Iris Oriental (Formally known as Iris Taizo) may be an attempt to steer away from the stereotypical presentations of iris.

This one opens with a juicy raw cut carrot accord, the kind of carrot you get in Iris Silver Mist, without the vapory feel. As it settles, the texture seems to go smooth, balmy and powdery at the same time. Vanilla and honey add to the natural sweetness in well-measured moderation. Incense, wood and resin, give Iris Oriental a more well-rounded character. On the whole, this feels like an iris amber.

I actually like how this one manages to refrain from smelling like cosmetics powder.

I think it is safe to say that Iris Oriental is like a Cuir d'Iris without the leather, with amp-up iris and powder. Great for someone who prefers a straight-up rich and rooty iris scent, and is a little jaded by the usual iris soliflore.

Parfumerie Generale: Cuir d'Iris

I think it is well-established by now, that I enjoy my iris as much as my leathers. Pierre Guillaume once again hits those 2 olfactory spots in a flawless victory. There is a distinct "PG" quality and style (like a thick, dusty/smoky cloud) I notice in his musk laden, animalic amber creations, previously most prominently so in Felanilla and L'Ombre Fauve. Cuir d'Iris is another model representative that harbors that style.

I believe it is down to the execution of marrying iris to leather so perfectly, that it comes off unpretentious and effortless, like as if they never existed separately. Upon first whiff, I get a mind-bogglingly natural smell of fine, buttery, supreme grade leather, exuding succulence and opulence, without even coming close to overwhelming the senses. All this happening, while the iris (in good amount mind you), so seamlessly included from the start, feels like it's been powdered over the leather.

It is not long after appreciating and acknowledging the harmonious leather-iris blend, that I start to notice that the scent has built up quite a thick, woody and dusty cloud of smoke(the smoky amber I spoke of earlier). It is this permeative cloud that is present in L'Ombre Fauve as well. And like-wise in Cuir d'Iris, the vanilla provides sweetness to the balance which might have easily been deemed to be very dry. It stays pretty much a smoky leathery amber till its dying moment, many hours later.

This is truly an amazing piece of work.

Parfumerie Generale: Cuir Venenum

I just received my bottle of Cuir Venenum and the word "Cuir" can be a little misleading here. Upon my first few sprays, I am met with a bubblegummy, fruity accord with some light floral undertones - tuberose is my guess, though I could be wrong. So this is the "burnt-jam" accord that is reported by retailers. Not at all what I was expecting from a name that suggests an intoxicating leather. I normally try my best not to associate an independent scent to another, but I couldn't help but be reminded of Serge Lutens Cedre, where a candied and sweetened tuberose is bolstered by some cedar, but only just.

As I allow the scent to sit and settle, and try to figure out where the leather is, I notice a bit of that coconut that has been listed, but just barely. It has been well hidden/blended in to add texture to the sweetness. But still no distinctive leather! The harder I try the more it seems to elude me. Ok, there is a slight rawness/bitterness to the scent, and maybe that's the leather, but I could just be trying to convince myself, too hard.

Myrrh? Not until the mid-stages does the myrrh start to loosen up and speak a little more, but acting only as supporting role in all that fruit-jam plot. But one would hardly consider the incense-y aspects of Cuir Venenum until they get past most of that sweetness.

Overall: A good quality fruity-floral bubblegum, with a cedar base.

Apart from the baffling name, I thoroughly enjoy this scent.

Parfumerie Generale: Aomassai

Into gourmands? Pierre Guillaume intellegently combines caramel and toasted hazelnut to present an aroma reminding me of hazelnut toffee. I get an olfactory image of hazelnuts glazed with caramel, then toasted lightly. Yummy!

There is an oily, slightly rubbery texture to Aomassai that I just can't seem to wrap my head around to figure what it is. This candy is rounded up smoothly with some spice, incense, resin and wood, giving the scent more substance in its dry down, while balancing out that caramelized sweetness.

Aomassai is certainly a pedestal-worthy gourmand in my collection. Do not worry, this isn't your typical sickly-sweet, overly-cloying or lactonic-dessert-wannabe. You will probably not find another work similar to Aomassai in the current market.

Parfumerie Generale: L'Ombre Fauve

A soft, creamy, animalic, musk galore surrounded by dry woods and some patchouli. A slightly sweetened vanilla, and some smoke adds an ambery and dusty dimension to this gently-consuming beast, as it starts to settle on skin. If you need an idea of what to expect, think: Unscented soap.

I *never* bothered with musks and animalics until I smelled this. Holy-grail material.

PG scents are never difficult to understand. You never have to crack your mind to figure out what's going on in them. What's written (basic notes) on the boxes, are a true reflection of what to expect from the juices. This is a perfect testament of simple, quality, goodness.

Parfumerie Generale: Felanilla

Now, Parfumerie Generale is a house that has immensely interested and impressed me in recent months. Masterminded by perfumer Pierre Guillaume (PG, get it?) who is also a chemist, Parfumerie Generale offers scents that are quirky yet un-challenging, reeking of quality oils. My first encounter with this house came in the form of a decant of Felanilla, thanks to a friend and fellow fragrance enthusiast. Felanilla is not your typically sweet, creamy vanilla concoction. It isn't a gourmand as well. It combines oily, slightly carroty and buttery iris; fizzy-spicy saffron, medicinal-smelling banana wood, and sweet hay to give the smoky vanilla base an animalic and slightly anti-septic complexion. Intoxicatingly good.

My only gripe: Even for a skin-scent, it ought to have much better longevity! It is an "Eau De Parfum Intense" after all...