Montale: White Aoud

It is amazing how so little this one is brought up/given a shout-out/reviewed compared to her more prolific siblings. Amazing because White Aoud stands no less in quality, substance, and general appeal, than the likes of Black Aoud, Red Aoud, Blue Amber, Oud Cuir d'Arabie etc.

Before you go: "Oh not another Aoud variation". Let me say that this one is no surplus to any of her siblings or cousins.

Of course, in no truer Montale Aoud fashion, White Aoud (also ordered in extra perfume concentration) opens with the gushing, muddy pungency of oudh, sweetened by a silky-smooth, syrupy rose, and inevitably garnished with some spices, most prominently saffron.

To give it body, a thick, warm amber cloud gives White Aoud the much needed support and overall form. The powdery earthy sweetness of sandalwood, vanilla and patchouli are let loose and allowed to seek equal attention at the front, slowly pushing the oudh presence into semi-oblivion. They start to form an accord that is present in a handful of other Aoud variations (most notably in Black Aoud).

This rich floral amber will leave no room for any other olfactory distractions while she's performing. This one, like any bonafide Montale, has longevity and sillage made for the greedy.

Montale: Black Aoud

Can it get any more glorious? This is probably Montale's most talked about, and easily their "signature" of the Oudh line.

Rose, Oudh, Patchouli. Is it difficult to imagine that something as straight-forward and uncomplicated as this could turn out so beautiful? Well, our Middle-Eastern friends have probably been using and creating similar fragrance structures for ages. It is no wonder why this is a winning formula.

Black Aoud opens with an effortlessly smooth blend of Rose and Oudh. You'd expect the oudh to be medicinal, pungent and very prickly, but it isn't, unlike a couple of other Montale Aouds. The rose is what Black Aoud is built around. A sweet and lush rose, without all that cloying matter or powdery thickness. The sandalwood and patchouli give the oudh-infused rose a milky and earthy-textured dry-down.

The scent does not come across as overtly dark as its name would suggest, but rather goth-gone-bright. I find Black Aoud to be completely versatile to wear. Formal, casual, what have you. Did I say this lasts forever on skin too? Yes it does. This coming from a longevity-whore.

Montale: Sliver Aoud

This would be Montale's sole(?) interpretation of the classic fougere. Typically, the lemon and bergamot dominate the opening of the scent, while the herbal, aromatic qualities of lavender join forces to create that familiar scent of the "80s" (or earlier).

While I do not distinctively detect a whole lot of oudh, there is a very blatant muddy accord that surrounds Sliver Aoud, that I suspect might be a facet of the elusive oudh.

As the citrus top starts to peel away, the sweetness of geranium/rose take on a more central role, and pretty much stays on for the entire wear.

I wouldn't think of Sliver Aoud as anything original or successfully innovative. The classic fougere genre is well-represented by many more prominent and defining icons. Silver Aoud would sadly blend into oblivion in this vastness.

Uninspiring, and redeemed only by a solid backbone of technical construction.

Montale: Oud Cuir d'Arabie

Medicinal. Leather.

I ordered this in extra perfume concentration and have been wearing it over the past week. I'm wearing it again this evening, and feel it is justifiable for me to sing some praises for this immaculately designed composition. Sure, this scents gets heaps of praises from fans and non-fans of Montale, and unfortunately or not, I am not able to break the choir up. This scent is good.

Unsurprisingly, the first thing that greets me is the anti-septic and sharp smell of oudh, pungent yet intoxicatingly addictive (I must sound like a broken record now). Before I know it, a few minutes in, the potent bitterness of premium leather comes bashing through the door. This combination is rather abrasive and loud, in a very good way. The leather stays on for the most part of the wear, hours later.

This scent isn't too difficult to understand. Oudh+Animalic Leather, cushioned by some faint florals and some smoke. Sensual, raw, bold and rugged.

If you're jaded by all the pseudo-leather scents flooding the mainstream, and looking for an untainted/unsweetened, realistic leather interpretation, Oud Cuir d'Arabie is one that you ought to sniff.

Montale: Red Aoud

So, a friend was telling me that Red Aoud in extra parfum concentration smells a little different from the regular. I went ahead to order it in extra parfum concentration anyways, since it was what I sampled from a decant months ago, and I loved it.

Are you a fan of iris? Saffron? Oudh? Well, you better be! Ok, Red Aoud's opening immediately boasts the robustly pungent and amoniac-like aroma of oudh. And, where the combination of iris and saffron hid their gourmand qualities in Felanilla, this same marriage decides to wrap the oudh up thinly with a chocolate-like veil, smoothening the slightly abrasive texture of the oudh, and serving up a gourmand oudh scent.


In between all that pseudo-chocolate goodness, you will notice a rather heat-y note - like that of a red pepper/chili of some sort. Red Aoud can well thank that chili note for giving it its oomph. It isn't as adventurous as it may come across. And like those chili-flavored chocolate bars you can find nowadays, Red Aoud is a well-balanced piece of work. And when the main players blow away, a really pleasant and smooth sandalwood base lingers on the skin, many hours later.

Montale: Blue Amber

Blue Amber opens soft and smooth with rose and spice sitting comfortably on top a pastry-smelling amber accord, with shades of vanilla and honey attributing sweetness and texture. Syrupy, but not cloying. Invoking an image of a silky-gold amber nectar. And like most of Pierre Montale's offerings, Blue Amber lasts and lasts and lasts....